And then we peeked into the secret lives of the grey whales at Gurrero Negro and touched their babies as they touched our hearts. We gazed upon the Ospreys that had learnt to survive in a human world. We marveled at the life of the Frigate bird that lives off the ocean but is doomed never to touch water lest it dies. In Todos Santos we bowed our heads in humble awe at the newborn Ridley's turtles orphaned and released to the fearsome waves where they will wander the seas for 20 years before returning to their birthplace to lay their eggs as they have done for millions of years. And finally we watched in fascination the Whale Shark the gentle, endearing fish that is neither a shark nor a whale.